


TEAM PINE RIDGE JOURNALARROW BUILDING BY TRACY BREENsubmitted on : 3/25/2009
If you are a bowhunter or an archery retailer, you know the importance of having a properly built arrow that flies like a dart every time it is shot - whether it’s in your backyard at the 3D tournament or in the woods. After all, it doesn’t matter how state-of-the-art your bow and all the accessories you have attached to it are; if your arrow isn’t built and tuned properly, hitting a small dot at a great distance is going to be tough. Hitting a whitetail in the vitals when your palms are sweaty and your knees are shaking is going to be nearly impossible. The good news is building arrows isn’t like building a skyscraper. With the right tools and a little knowledge, you can custom build arrows that you or anyone you are building them for would be proud to shoot.
Just like in any hobby or trade, to
build quality arrows you need the right tools.
There are a variety of tools you will need to do the job right. First
and foremost, you will need a high-quality arrow cutoff saw. Apple Archery
makes the best in the business. The Apple Archery Pro cutoff saw has a ball-bearing
motor that hums at a whopping 8,000 RPM, producing a quick clean cut every time
you cut an arrow shaft. If you plan on cutting several arrows or don’t want a
mess in your shop, consider purchasing the 0600 model which comes with a dust
collection system that collects all the dust the saw creates and feed it to
your Shop-Vac. The Pine Ridge Archery Arrow Inspector is great for spin testing
the arrows after they’re built. Other wise investments include an arrow
cleaning prep tool, an insert extractor tool and a nock alignment tool. Other required
tools include a fletching jig, inserts, fletching; plastic vanes or feathers,
nocks and Pine Ridge Archery Instant Arrow Glue.
Pine Ridge glue works great and costs less than many of the other
popular brands.
After your arrow is cut to length, it is time to insert your nocks in the end of the arrow. Some nocks need to be glued in. Some arrow shafts come with them already
installed. Many companies today are offering high speed nocks that promise to
increase arrow speed. Many of these nocks that simply push into place. Most
push in nocks hold up extremely well and can be rotated once they are
installed, giving the shooter the ability to rotate the direction the cock
feather is facing when they shoot the arrow.
If a snap-in nock comes loose, it can be pushed back into place. Glued-in nocks on the other hand require more
time to install and if they come loose they will need to be glued back in.
The next step is gluing the
fletching onto the arrow. Make sure the
shaft is clean before you glue on the fletching. Applying an arrow cleaner to
the shaft to eliminate all residue on the shaft before gluing on fletching is
always a good idea. Failure to do this
could reduce the longevity of the bond between the shaft and the vane. There
are several fletching jigs on the market - from single arrow jigs to jigs that
fletch up to six arrows at a time. Fletching one arrow at a time is easier and
less stressful if you haven’t fletched arrows before. Before you put the first
fletch on, determine if you want your vanes to be straight or offset (helical).
Many bowhunters choose to have their fletching offset because it has proven to
steer arrows tipped with broadheads better than straight fletching. There are
three options: straight, right helical, and left helical.
Most jigs come with a clamp that
the fletching is placed in. The clamp
that holds the fletching is applied to the arrow and the jig until the glue
dries. Some jigs allow you to fletch an entire shaft at once; others allow one
fletch to be applied at a time. Applying
the clamp that is holding the fletching to the arrow and getting it in the
right place can be tricky. Before
putting glue on the fletching, place the clamp holding the vane onto the arrow
while it’s in the jig. This allows you
to get a feel of how the clamp lines up on the jig. Place your vane in the clamp so the rear of
the vane will be between ½ and ¾ of an inch in front of the nock. Adjust your clamp inward or outward to get
the amount of helical you desire. If you
are using small broadheads, a slight amount of helical is all that’s
needed. If you use larger broadheads, a
more severe helical will be needed. When
you understand how to apply the clamp to the jig, apply your glue to the
fletching and put the clamp in place.
The key to success when gluing on fletching is using enough glue so the
fletch will stay on for a long time, but not so much so that you will have gobs
of glue on your arrow.
After your first vane is dry,
rotate the arrow in the jig and repeat the process with the next vane.Once all of your fletching is glued
on, it is time to glue in your insert.
Use your prep tool to rough up the inside of the shaft. Roughing up the shaft will cause the glue to
bond to the shaft with greater strength, reducing the chance of pulling out an
insert when removing an arrow from a target. Next, put glue on the insert and glue
it in. Before the glue dries, screw a
broadhead into the insert and line up the vanes with the broadhead blades and
let the insert dry in place. Having the
vanes and broadheads aligned properly will result in a more accurate-flying
arrow.
Once the arrow is dry, spin test the arrow on the Arrow Inspector to ensure that it flies perfectly. If the arrow spins perfectly, it is ready for the woods. To find out more about the author visit www.tracybreen.com
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